The collar frames your face more than any other part of your outfit. The general idea: a collar should balance your face, not echo it. Narrow, longer collars help wider faces. Wider, open collars help longer faces.
| Collar | What it looks like | Wear it for |
|---|---|---|
| Point | Narrow gap, longer points | Business, interviews; flatters round and wide faces |
| Semi-spread | Medium gap between points | Almost everything; the safest single choice |
| Spread | Wide gap | Ties with bigger knots; balances long, narrow faces |
| Cutaway | Very wide, almost horizontal | Fashion-forward suits; long faces |
| Button-down | Points buttoned to the shirt | Casual and smart casual; sport coats |
| Band (mandarin) | No points, a short stand | No-tie events, warm weather |
| Wing | Short stand with folded tips | White tie and some black tie looks |
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Match the collar to your face
| Face shape | Try | Go easy on |
|---|---|---|
| Round or wide | Point, semi-spread | Cutaway |
| Long or narrow | Spread, cutaway | Long point |
| Square or strong jaw | Semi-spread, spread | Very short points |
| Oval | Almost anything | Nothing in particular |
Neck matters too. A longer neck looks balanced with a taller collar band, and a shorter neck with a lower one.
Collar and tie knot
Wider collars leave space that a bigger knot fills, like a half-Windsor or Windsor. Point collars suit a slim four-in-hand knot.
Know your collar style? Pair it with the right size. Get your collar and sleeve size, then see brands that sell exact sizes.
Keep your collar sharp
Collar stays are the small strips that slide into the underside of point and spread collars so the tips don’t curl. Many shirts come with plastic ones that bend or get lost in the wash. Metal stays hold a sharper line and last for years.
Quick answers
Which collar is the most versatile?
A semi-spread (also called a medium spread) works with or without a tie and suits most faces. If you only own one style, make it this one.
What collar should I wear with a round face?
A point collar or a narrower spread. The longer, closer points draw the eye down and lengthen the face.
What collar suits a long or narrow face?
A spread or cutaway collar. The wider angle adds width and balances a long face.
Can I wear a button-down collar with a suit?
Button-down collars are more casual. They work with a sport coat or a relaxed suit, but most people pick a point or spread collar for formal events and interviews.
Related: Fit guide · Wedding attire · Interview attire