Collar and sleeve tell you the size. The fit tells you the shape of the body. Brands use different names, but most cuts fall into four groups.
| Fit | Shape | Usually best for |
|---|---|---|
| Classic or regular | Straight from chest to waist, most room | Fuller midsections, people who want comfort and movement |
| Slim | Narrower through the waist and often the arms | Leaner builds with a modest chest-to-waist difference |
| Extra slim | The narrowest cut, close through body and arms | Very lean builds |
| Athletic | Room in chest and shoulders, tapered waist | Broad chest and shoulders, much smaller waist |
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Which fit is yours: a 10-second rule
Subtract your waist from your chest (body measurements, not shirt measurements). This is our rule of thumb, not a brand standard, so use it as a starting point:
- Under 2 inches: start with classic.
- 2 to 6 inches: try slim, or classic if you like room.
- More than 6 inches: try athletic or slim, and check the shoulders.
The calculator applies the same rule when you enter chest and waist.
Five signs a shirt fits
- Shoulder seam sits at the edge of your shoulder bone.
- One or two fingers fit inside the buttoned collar.
- Cuffs reach your wrist bone and show slightly past a jacket sleeve.
- No pulling or X-shaped creases across the buttons.
- When tucked, it doesn’t balloon over your belt, and it stays tucked when you raise your arms.
If nothing off the rack fits
If off-the-rack shirts always fail you in one spot, made-to-measure shirt makers such as Proper Cloth build a shirt from your measurements. Expect to pay more than off-the-rack. Proper Cloth remakes your first custom shirt free if the fit is off.
Quick answers
What is the difference between slim fit and classic fit?
A classic fit is cut straight from chest to waist, with room to move. A slim fit narrows through the waist and is often shorter in the body. Neither is better; it depends on your build.
Is athletic fit the same as slim fit?
No. Athletic fits keep room in the chest and shoulders and taper at the waist. They’re made for people whose chest is much bigger than their waist.
How should a dress shirt fit?
The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder bone, you should fit one or two fingers in the buttoned collar, the cuffs should reach your wrist bone, and the shirt shouldn’t billow when tucked.
Can a tailor fix a shirt that’s too big?
Usually, yes. Taking in the sides and shortening sleeves are common alterations. Shoulders and collars are hard or impossible to change, so buy for those.
Related: How to measure · Best dress shirt brands · Collar types